Mundkur – Temples of Tulu Nadu

Along the river Shambhavi in Dakshina Kannada, an unbelievable number of ancient and beautiful temples exist. Most of these are thousands of years old and carry an amazing amount of historical significance. There are mainly a lot of Shiva and Durga temples along this line. Even after dedicating myself to just this stretch every time I visit Tulu Nadu, I have not yet managed to cover even half of them.

Sri Mundkur Durga Parameshwari Temple is another such wonderful temple. It is along the Shambhavi river coast and can be reached if one takes the Belmann-Moodabidri road from Udupi. Along with Inna-Muddanu, this temple also was established by Sage Bharadwaja Bhargava. In fact, this temple along with Inna is the Kula Devata temple for many people in Tulu Nadu who have Bhargava Gotra. On the day I visited this temple, a special alankara with Sandal paste was made to the main idol and Devi was looking resplendent in a golden hue.

The Ganapathi idol in the temple is fully covered with silver and looks very auspicious. This temple has a history of more than 1200 years old. The priest of the temple took me to the well used to draw water for the rituals. The rings of the well have not been changed over the years and stand as archaeological proof for the age of the temple. There are deep grooves on all the rings which stand as testimony to the fact that this temple has been in existence for thousands of years.

This temple, over the years, had been patronised by the rulers of Moodabidri. In fact, legend has it that the King and Queen of Moodabidri, when visiting the temple praying in front of the idol, the ear rings of the Queen dropped down. The Queen gave it as an offering to the idol. The ear rings are used to decorate the idol of Durga even today. Two wooden pillars were also carved on behalf of the King in memory of this event.

From one of the books available at the temple, I managed to obtain a photo of the idol without any decoration. It is an amazing carving!

The annual festival in the temple starts from the 22nd day of Makara (Feb) and is held for 8 days. It is considered very auspicious to offer ‘Jaji’ and ‘Mallige’ flowers to Durga here. Hence, a lot of devotees visit this temple carrying these flowers.

Name: Sri Durga Parameshwari Temple

Location: Mundkur, Udupi District

Main deities: Durga, Ganapathi

Bhutas: Doomavathy, Varahi, Pili chamundi, Rakteshwari

Address: Sri Durga Parameshwari Temple, Mundkur, Karkala Taluk, Udupi district – 576121

Contact: by snail mail

How to get there: From Udupi, take the Karkala road via Padubidri. A few kilometres later, take the deviation to Belmann. Mundkur lies on this stretch.

Specialities: Mundkur is surrounded by the river Shambhavi on three sides (East, South and West). Around Mundkur, four Shiva temples are located – Posaral towards South-East, Inna-Muddanu towards North-East, Ulepadi towards South-West and Bola towards North-West.

More photos can be seen here.

Inna Muddanu – Temples of Tulu Nadu

Inna Muddanu is another beautiful Shiva temple on the banks of River Shambhavi in Tulu Nadu. I was told by the priest of Posaral temple that there are 11 Shiva temples just on the banks of the river itself. Inna is one of them. The main deity of this temple is Sri Mahalingeshwara. As found in almost every other temple in Tulu Nadu, there is also a Ganapathi idol here towards the South West corner of the temple.

According to the legend of the place, the great sage Bhargava performed penance of Lord Shiva at a nearby hill. Pleased with the penance, Lord Shiva blessed Bhargava and granted a boon that he would come down and stay in the form of a Linga nearby. That is how the Inna temple came into being. Even today, Inna Mahalingeshwara (along with Sri Durga Parameshwari of nearby Mundkur, also established by Sage Bhargava) is the Kula Devata for a majority of families from the Bhargava Gotra in Tulu Nadu.

The garbha gudi and theertha mantapa are also built in typical Dakshina Kannada temple style. The main Bhuta worshipped in the temple is Varahi (Panjurli).

The mantapa also has beautiful carvings on the pillars. The Nandi idol in the mantapa is also very beautiful.

Name: Sri Mahalingeshwara Devasthana.

Location: Inna Muddanu, Udupi District.

Main deities: Mahalingeshwara, Ganapati

Bhutas: Panjurli

Address: Inna Muddanu Sri Mahalingeshwara Devasthana, Karkala Taluk, Udupi District – 576 146

Telephone: 08258 – 268108

How to get there: On the Udupi Mangalore highway, turn right at Padubidri towards Karkala. After about 8 kilometres, you will reach Adve. Turn right here and travel about 3kms. You will find a board for Inna. Turn left here and travel a further 3kms to reach Inna.

More photos can be found here.

Specialities: The temple was recently renovated in 2006 and is in excellent condition. There are lots of facilities to take care of travelers here. This place has a recorded history of more than 1300 years. It is certainly worth a visit the next time you are around Udupi.

Palimaru – Temples of Tulu Nadu

Palimaru is a small village very close to Udupi. This village is the headquarters of the Palimaru Matha, one of the 8 mathas founded by Sri Madhvacharya. The first pontiff of this matha was Sri Hrishikesha Theertha, who was a direct disciple of Srimadacharya. The current pontiff is Sri Sri Vidyadheesha Theertha Swamiji.

The moola devaru of the Matha is “Sita Lakshmana Sahita Sri Rama”. Since the Swamiji was not in Palimaru when I visited the place, we could not get to see the main idols. The Garbha Gudi was also locked. But the matha itself is amazing. It is as if one has gone back 800 years into history. The matha and the temple is built in typical Dakshina Kannada style.

Another main attraction of the matha is the Mukhya Prana or Anjaneya temple. It is situated right behind the main temple. This temple was constructed a few years back and is very well known in Dakshina Kannada already. People call it the temple of the “Mathanaduva Anjaneya” or “Talking Hanuman”. Countless devotees have had their wishes fullfilled here after sincere prayers. The small temple is very beautiful to look at and the idol itself is very attractive. This temple is one of my favorites in Dakshina Kannada.

Another of the glorious attractions of the temple is the Brundavana of Sri Sri Vidya Manya Theertha Swamiji, the previous pontiff of the Palimaru Matha. He was one of the greatest Yatis of the 20th century and the Guru of several Dvaita scholars and pontiffs such as Sri Sri Vishvesha Tirtha Swamiji of the Pejavara Matha and Sri Sri Vishva Priya Theertha Swamiji of the Adamaru Matha. I call Sri Sri Vidya Manya Theertha the Raghavendra Swamiji of the 20th century.

Right behind the Anjaneya Garbha Gudi is located the Brundavanas of several past pontiffs of the Palimaru Matha. Some other brundavanas are located to the southern side of the temple. There is a board put up there which gives details of the Swamijis whose brundavanas are located at this matha. The earliest brundavana was from the 1300s!

The matha also has a beautiful Pushkarani with crystal clear water. Right behind the matha flows the Shambhavi river. There is a mini-bridge-cum-dam built over the river there. The sceneries around the river are breath-taking.

Name: Sri Palimaru Matha

Location: Palimaru, Padubidri, Udupi District

Main deities: Sri Rama, Mukhya Prana

Address: Sri Palimaru Matha, Near Padubidri, Udupi District

How to get there: On the Udupi Mangalore highway, turn towards Nitte/Karkala at Padubidri junction. Travel 4-5 kms to reach a junction called Adve. Turn right here and travel about 3-4 kms to reach Palimaru matha.

Other specialities: There is also a very ancient Shiva temple located at Palimaru village. In the Anjaneya temple, the priests perform Vayu Stuti Purascharane to the main idol based on our request. A lot of people come here and get the Purascharane done. It is considered very auspicious.

Best time to visit: All through the year

More photos can be found here.

The matha now has a very informative website of their own. Click here.

Madhva Kshetras

Throughout Tulu Nadu, there are many holy places tied to Sri Madhvacharya. Many of these are mentioned in Sumadhva vijaya, the hagiography of Sri Madhva. They are scattered throughout Udupi and Mangalore districts of Karnataka and Kasaragod district of Kerala. One day, I hope to cover all these places and provide details of them. But here is a small introduction to some of the places.

Danda theertha: This is the place where Sri Madhva studied the Vedas, under Sri Achyuta Preksha Theertha. This place also has a pond which was ‘created’ by Sri Madhva using his danda or stick. This place is located on the Udupi Mangalore highway. It is about 10kms from Udupi. Upon finding Bharat Canning Company, one needs to turn left to reach this place.
Sandalike Padi: This is the place where Sri Madhva encountered a Bhuta, when returning from Badarikashrama. It is located on the Udupi Kukkikatte road.
Kantavara Kanteshvara Temple: Some ignorant people tried to test the strength of Sri Madhva here. They could not even move the toe of Sri Madhva! He also displayed his Laghima siddhi here by going around the temple on the back of a small boy. This is located on the Padubidri Karkala road, off the Udupi Mangalore highway. After 15kms on this road, one reaches Belmann. The next stop is Manjarapalke and a right turn here and 10kms later, one reaches Kantavara.
Madhva: This is also the name of the place! Sri Madhva used to rest while on his way to Naddanthadi Matha. It is located on the Mangalore Dharmasthala road. From Mangalore, it is about 39kms and the name of the stop is itself Madhva.
Naddanthadi Matha: Sri Madhva used to travel very frequently between Udupi and Subramanya. During this journey, he used to stop at Naddanthadi. There is a matha here today and a “Madhva Mantapa” at the place where Sri Madhva used to sit down. On the Dharmasthala Ujire road, one needs to get down at Moorje. The place is about 45kms from Mangalore.
Erki Matha: Sri Madhva performed one of his numerous miracles here. In the season of Greeshma, he ‘created’ rain here. There is a pond at this place as a witness to the event. Another speciality of this place is that the head of the matha here has the authority (granted by Sri Madhva himself) to perform “Tapta Mudra Dharana” on Shayana Ekadashi, the only Gruhastha permitted to do so! Erki matha is located on the Uppinangadi – Kadaba – Subramanya road. From Uppinangadi, Aatoor is located about 10kms away. Erki matha is close to this place.
Kodipadi: It was at Kodipadi that Sri Madhva got back his stolen library. The King of Kumble returned this to Sri Madhva in a grand ceremony here. There is also a Janardana idol at the temple which was worshipped by Sri Madhva, plus a pond and a stone bench from that period. Kodipadi is on the way from Mangalore to Mani (Bangalore Highway). It is located 2kms before Puttur. After entering through the arch of Kodipadi, one has to travel 3kms to reach the place.
Adoor Mahalingeshwara Temple: This is a very important place for Madhvas. It was here that Sri Madhva defeated numerous scholars from other schools and converted them to Tattvavada. It was at Adoor where he also revealed the fact that every single name in the Vishnu Sahasranama had at least 100 meanings. Sri Madhva has also established a Vishnu idol here. One needs to take the Kasaragod Sullya road and cross Mulleriya and Kotyadi to reach Adoor.
Paranti Panchalingeshwara Temple: When Sri Madhva visited this place, the temple was in shambles and even the “Naivedya” to the Lord had stopped. Sri Madhva re-established the worship procedure here. He also revealed that he had worshipped at this place during the time of the Mahabharata (as Bhima). There are five natural Lingas located here. From Uppinangadi (Mangalore Bangalore Highway), after 11kms, one reaches Kanchana. 2kms from here is Periyadka and from there one needs to reach Mudya. Paranti is close by from here.
Kokkada Mahalingeshwara Temple: Sri Madhva wrote the famous “Krishnamruta Maharnava” here and also established a Vishnu idol in this temple. From Uppinangadi, one needs to travel 19kms to reach Nelyadi. 3kms from here, one needs to turn left and travel a further 5kms to reach Kokkada.
Kavu Matha: This was the home of Sri Trivikrama Panditacharya and Sri Narayana Panditacharya, the great Gruhastha disciples of Sri Madhva and the authors of many priceless works. Their brundavanas are also located here. Kavu matha is located 45kms from Mangalore and 2kms from Kasaragod, near the chowki stop.
Madhur Temple and Vishnumangala Temple: Both these places were visited multiple times by Sri Madhva. They are located close to Kasaragod city.
Kanvatirtha Kanva Matha: Sri Madhva gave a sermon here during a solar eclipse. Here, he also established the principle of “Dvandva Matha” or “Twin mathas” of Udupi, according to which there are 4 pairs of mathas worshipping at the Udupi temple. In case of the inability of the current matha to discharge their duty, the dvandva matha takes over. Kanvatirtha is located 20kms from Mangalore, towards Kasaragod. One needs to alight at the Talapadi bus stop. Kanvatirtha is close to Talapadi.

Of course, I have not covered Udupi and Pajaka here but they are very well known and a must visit also.

I hope this small writeup will be beneficial to Madhvas. It would be good if we plan to visit these places whenever we are visiting Udupi, Dharmasthala or Kukke. The rich religious, cultural and historical significance of these places will then start spreading.

Naga Bana – Photos

My home in Nellitheertha, just like any other in Tulu Nadu, has its own Naga Bana (Snake Forest). That stretch of forest is “reserved” for Nagas. All the Naga related rituals and Pujes happen in the Bana.

Throughout Tulu Nadu, the Naga Banas, by virtue of the reverence and fear associated with them, are virtually untouched pockets of greenery. They are, in a sense, the lungs of the forest 🙂

Some photos from the Bana…

Kulai – Temples of Tulu Nadu

Kulai is a very, and I mean very ancient temple in Tulu Nadu. It is a small locality on the outskirts of Mangalore city, and has been merged within the City limits now. It is located on the Mangalore – Udupi highway, close to Suratkal. The main deity in this temple is Lord Vishnu, known as Vishnu Murthy.

The antiquity of the temple can be guaged by a close look at the main deity’s idol. Even without any scientific examination, it becomes clear that the idol is several hundred years old, at the least. In true Tulu Nadu style, the temple also has a Ganapati idol. In addition, the temple has a very attractive and revered Naga statue.

The main Bhuta in the temple is Panjurli which has its own “Gudi” towards the South-east corner of the temple. The temple also has an attractive “Pushkarani” or pond and a separate section for conducting Bhuta Kolas.

Name: Sri Vishnumurthy Devasthana

Location: Kulai, Dakshina Kannada district

Main deities: Vishnu, Ganapati, Nagas

Bhuta: Panjurli

Address: Sri Vishnumurthy Devasthana, Kulai, Mangalore – 575019

Telephone: 91-824-2408090

Contact: By phone or snail mail

How to get there: On the Mangalore – Udupi highway, Kulai is located 17kms from Mangalore, just prior to Suratkal. You will find the temple arch on the right as soon as you enter Kulai limits (while traveling from Mangalore). The temple is a kilometre away once you enter through the arch.

Annual festival: Starting from the 18th day of Meena masa, for five days (typically in the first week of April)

Best time to visit: October to May

Specialities: Being a Vishnu temple, Kulai is very well known for the numerous “Bhajan” programs held there. You are sure to attend a Bhajan session if you happen to visit on a Saturday or a Wednesday.

More photos can be found here.

Bali Kallu – Temples of Tulu Nadu

No, this is not the name of a temple 🙂 I am writing today about another unique aspect of temples in Tulu Nadu. Almost all the temples here have “Bali Kallu” or “Bali Stones”. These are small stones laid around the sanctum sanctorum and the outer perimeter of the temple.

These stones are representative of the various GaNas present in the temple. I have seen these Bali Kallus in almost all temples in Dakshina Kannada and Udupi. They represent the various Grahas, Matrukas, Adityas, Rudras, Kshetrapala and so on.

During the annual festival in temples, a majority of the ceremonies concern these Bali Kallus. It is said that the festival is actually meant to please these lesser deities as they are the ones who really take care of the Grama (village) for one whole year. Hence, there is a system of bringing the God’s idol out for “Bali” or rounds during the festival and during these rounds, the various Bali Kallus are offered Puje. In some sense, it is equivalent to the boss of the organization (Lord) offering annual bonuses to the employees (gaNas).

Distances between…

Travelers may find this useful. Will update this more as and when I figure more distances. All distances approximate.

Bangalore – Mangalore (via Kunigal – Chennarayapatna – Hassan – Sakleshpura – Uppinangadi) : 360kms

Bangalore – Mysore : 140kms

Mysore – Madikeri (via Hunsur – Periyapatna – Kushalnagara): 120kms

Madikeri – Mangalore (via Sampaje – Sullya – Puttur – BC Road): 140kms

Mangalore – Udupi : 60kms

Udupi – Kundapur : 40kms

Mangalore – Dharmasthala (via Uppinangadi) : 70kms

Mangalore – Subramanya (via Uppinangadi): 90kms

Subramanya – Dharmasthala (via Gundya): 60kms

Madikeri – Subramanya (via Sampaje – Sullya – Puttur) : 120kms

Udupi – Bajpe (via Mulki – Kinnigoli): 55kms

Mangalore – Bajpe (via Mulki – Kinnigoli): 30kms

Seemanthooru – Temples of Tulu Nadu

Seemanthooru is a small village near Mulki, close to the Mangalore – Udupi Highway. The village is close to the Mulki railway station. The name Seemanthooru is an offshoot of “Shrimantara Ooru” which means “land of the rich!”. Seemanthooru was indeed the land of the rich. I was recently discussing the history of another temple – Atturu Bailu Ganapati devasthana and the priest there mentioned that they (priests) were originally from Seemanthooru and hundreds of years ago, they came down to Bailu.

Seemanthooru has a Janardana temple. It is known as the Sri Adi Janardana Devasthana. It has a very interesting story behind why the temple is called as “Adi” Janardana temple.

Speciality: The Seemanthooru Janardana temple was established by Bhagawan Parashurama. It is one of the several temples in the Tulu Nadu region that was established by Parashurama. According to Shastras, temple idols established by Rishis and Aparoksha Gnanis (realized souls) never get “damaged”. A few hundred years ago, the idol of Janardana was damaged ( I believe the hand got broken). A few villagers got together and made a new idol and established the same, after which the temple and village declined. Upon enquiring with scholars, it emerged that the original idol still has the full Sannidhana and hence the problem. The idol was repaired and placed back. The original idol is now known as “Adi Janardana” and the new idol is also within the same temple. Hence this unique temple has two Janardana idols!

Another unique feature of this temple is that it is one of the very few temples in Tulu Nadu that does not have a Ganapati idol! When I checked this with the priest, he mentioned that Seemanthooru Janardana is the “Akhilanda Koti Brahmanda Nayaka” and hence there is no other idol! Now, note that several Vishnu temples in Tulu Nadu do have Ganapati idols and hence Seemanthooru is really different.

Name: Sri Adi Janardana Devasthana.

Location: Seemanthooru, Mulki, Dakshina Kannada.

Main deities: Adi Janardana, Janardana

Bhutas: Rakteshwari

Address: Sri Adi Janardana Temple, Shimanthur, Post Panjinadka – 574 195, Mulky, D.K

Contact: By snail mail.

Telephone: 0824 – 2294745

How to get there: From Mangalore, reach Mulki using the Udupi highway and then turn right towards Kinnigoli. About 2kms later, you will find a temple arch. Turn left and travel 1km.

Annual festival: For 6 days starting Kumbha Masa Saptami (late February – early March)

More photos.

Kadandale – Temples of Tulu Nadu

Kadandale is another one of the villages on the banks of the river Shambhavi. Kadandale has one of the oldest and a really magnificent Subramanya Temple.

Kadandale was known to be one of the richest temples around in Tulu Nadu. The income from this temple was supposedly enough to sustain several other temples around. The annual festivities of many temples around used to be conducted through this temple.

Unfortunately, the administrators of this temple were very uncooperative, to say the least. While they did not allow shooting the idols (which is understandable), they did not come forward with any information either. They were just too scared I guess 🙂

The Lord Subramanya idol I saw was one of the tallest and most wonderful I had ever seen.

The temple also has a Ganesha idol along with the main deity.

Name: Sri Subramanya Devasthana

Location: Kadandale village, Udupi.

Main deities: Subramanya, Ganapati.

Bhutas: Panjurli

Address: Sri Subramanya Devasthana, Kadandale, Udupi Taluk, Udupi.

Contact: By snail mail.

How to get there: From Kinnigoli, take the Belmann road via Moorukaveri. Turn right at Jaarikatte. Cross Posaral and travel about 5kms more. Once you cross the Shambhavi river (bridge), Kadandale is close by.

More photos here.